We spent five weeks in Istanbul — long enough to fall for a city that sprawls across two continents. Based at the historic Pera Palace in Beyoglu, we filled our days with grand mosques, ancient cisterns and the buzz of the bazaars, and our evenings with Bosphorus views and some of the best food we've eaten. This is where we stayed, ate and explored.
Where to stay
Pera Palace Hotel · Beyoglu
This historic hotel began hosting Orient Express passengers back in 1895 and has survived the fall of the Ottoman Empire and two world wars. Home to Turkey's first electric elevator, with Bosphorus views from the balconies, flower-filled displays in the Kubbeli Lounge (known for its afternoon teas) and the Orient Terrace for cocktails and sunsets.
Where to eat & drink
Ulus 29
A stand-out favourite — amazing service, food and views.
Sunset Bar & Grill
An upscale restaurant with international and Turkish cuisine, overlooking the Bosphorus with amazing views.
Jash Istanbul · Cihangir
The best Armenian restaurant. This gem is hidden away in the streets of Cihangir — a wonderful locals' vibe.
Zubeyir Ocakbasi
Amazing traditional Turkish food cooked on the barbecue in front of you.
Cecconi's
Northern Italian restaurant — dine inside or among the olive trees in the garden, housed in the courtyard of Palazzo Corpi.
Gallada & Topside Bar · Peninsula Hotel
Located in the Peninsula Hotel, this is the place to soak up the vibrant atmosphere while enjoying flavours of the ancient Silk Road, from Turkiye through Central Asia to China.
Aheste
Turkish and Middle Eastern meze in a lovely cosy setting inside an old water tower.
Bebek Hotel Terrace Restaurant · Bebek
A chic lunch or dinner spot — dine on the terrace with fabulous Bosphorus views.
Lucca · Bebek
From breakfast to dinner, this chic, well-known restaurant, often frequented by celebrities, sits in the trendy area of Bebek, serving traditional food and a great selection of cocktails.
Karakoy Gulluoglu
If you like baklava, this is the best. The Gullu family have been making baklava since the 1800s, and this is known as the first address of baklava in Istanbul.
Ernest's Bar · Beyoglu
Only a few steps from the Pera Palace, this became our little hidden local bar — famously named after Hemingway, with great cocktails and some of the best Thai food we've tasted.
Yeni Lokanta
Contemporary Turkish cuisine — the tasting menu has a great selection.
What to see & do
Basilica Cistern
Built in the 6th century, the largest of the hundreds of cisterns that lie beneath the city.
The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque)
Built between 1609 and 1616, one of the most visited and iconic monuments of the Ottoman era.
Bosphorus Bridge
Walk across the famous bridge connecting the Asian and European sides — a bustling scene of restaurants, fishermen and boats.
Galata Tower · Beyoglu
Originally built as a watchtower, this 14th-century landmark sits in the Beyoglu district.
Sirkeci Train Station
A fascinating historical station on the European side, once the last stop of the Orient Express.
Grand Bazaar
One of the largest and most famous covered bazaars in the world. Get lost in the narrow paths of shops selling vintage jewellery, textiles, antiques and Turkish coffee.
Spice Bazaar
A true spectacle of scents, flavours and colours.
Know before you go
Getting there: Istanbul has two airports — Istanbul Airport (IST) on the European side handles most international flights, while Sabiha Gokcen (SAW) sits on the Asian side. IST is the larger hub and closest to the historic sights.
Getting around: Trams, the metro and ferries across the Bosphorus are cheap and efficient — pick up an Istanbulkart for all public transport. Taxis and the BiTaksi app fill the gaps. Traffic is heavy, so the ferry is often the fastest way between the two sides.
Best time to visit: Spring (April to May) and autumn (September to November) are the mildest and loveliest. Summer is hot and crowded; winter is cool and quiet, but atmospheric.
Where to base yourself: Beyoglu, around the Pera Palace, puts you near the nightlife and a ferry from the historic peninsula. Bebek is chic, residential and waterfront for a quieter stay.
Good to know: Dress modestly to enter mosques — shoulders and knees covered, and a scarf for women — though cover-up clothing can be hired at the entrance if you need it. Most mosques close to visitors during the five daily prayer times. Turkish is the language, but English is widely spoken in tourist areas; carry some lira for markets and cafes.
Frequently asked questions
Where should I stay in Istanbul?
We based ourselves at the historic Pera Palace in Beyoglu — the one-time home of Orient Express passengers, with Bosphorus views and a famous afternoon tea. Beyoglu and neighbouring Bebek put you close to the best restaurants, bars and the ferries across the water.
What are the best restaurants in Istanbul?
Our favourites were Ulus 29 for service, food and views, and Zubeyir Ocakbasi for traditional barbecue cooked in front of you. Jash Istanbul does wonderful Armenian food in Cihangir, and Karakoy Gulluoglu is the city's most famous baklava, made by the same family since the 1800s.
What are the must-see sights in Istanbul?
The Blue Mosque, the 6th-century Basilica Cistern and the Galata Tower are the essentials, while the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar are unmissable for atmosphere. Walk across the Bosphorus Bridge between the European and Asian sides for the city's best people-watching.
How many days do you need in Istanbul?
You could see the headline sights in three to four days, but Istanbul rewards a slower pace. We stayed five weeks and never ran out of neighbourhoods, restaurants and markets to explore — a week gives you the icons plus time to wander.
When is the best time to visit Istanbul?
Spring (April to May) and autumn (September to November) bring mild weather and thinner crowds, making them the loveliest times to visit. Summer is hot and busy, while winter is cool and quiet — atmospheric, if you don't mind the chill.
Should I stay on the European or Asian side of Istanbul?
Most first-time visitors stay on the European side, close to the historic sights, bazaars and the Beyoglu and Bebek dining scenes. The Asian side is quieter and more residential — well worth a ferry trip for the day, easily reached across the Bosphorus.